Oct 2011
“…two roads diverged in a wood and I, I took the road less travelled by, and that made all the difference.” -Robert Frost
If you are reading this, you have made the long and somewhat arduous trek to Raja 4 Divers. Congratulations! You are now part of an elite club…few people will ever hear of Raja Ampat, and only a fraction of that group will be lucky enough to experience the fairytale island of Pulau Pef.
After 24 hours of flying riddled with seven hours of layovers and a short 12 hour stay in Jakarta, my travel partner and I arrived at the harbor in Sorong, staving off exhaustion with the high of finally making it so close to “our” coveted Pulau Pef. The three hour boat ride through The Passage was like a dream, a beautiful preface to the island…of course no journey is complete unless you battle a rain storm that makes it difficult to see 50 meters in any direction! This small storm made the anticipation of seeing the island for the first time even more alluring. When we finally arrived, a cold coconut with a straw and a deck full of the dive staff playing Raja welcome songs greeted our group. The journey was over…or was it?
In all actuality this was just the beginning. After a tour of the facilities and our jaw dropping bungalow, we couldn’t wait to get in the water and snorkel the house reef. It was a mad dash from one marine critter to another…is THAT really a clam? Did you see the color of that starfish? Wait…come here, what IS that? Come down here and look at this piece of coral, I’ve never seen this before! After only five minutes we looked at one another and knew we had found something special, a mecca of sorts…the most beautiful thing either of us had ever seen or experienced. The diving couldn’t come soon enough.
The next day, diving the house reef was nothing less than impressive. So many species at the house reef alone seemed impossible. Gorgeous baby batfish under the dock floated right by us, hundreds of trigger fish lazily skimmed the waters’ surface, a massive puffer that could swallow a soccer ball whole crept around the corner like an ancient sea monster. So many fish…so much coral…so healthy…so pristine…right outside our bungalow? It was unreal. Later that day a pod of about 40 dolphins led us to Melissa’s Reef which I have denoted as the “Romance” dive site, not because Francois and Valerie were noisily kissing 10 meters below, but because of the unbelievable rays of sunlight illuminating each coral inhabitant, each wave of a sea fan, each ripple of a giant clams flesh. It was like a dream that lived and breathed and pulsated. It was perfection.
Unfortunately I cannot now describe any dive down to the specifics other than the first. The sheer number of nudibranchs, wobegongs, sea fans, barracuda, Moorish idols, trunk fish, trigger fish, soft corals, flat worms, sea fans, elk horn corals, sea anemones, glass fish, and fishfishfish of any kind is staggering. It would take pages for me to recall half of what we saw. That is why you are here. That is why WE were here. To catch a glimpse of something that is becoming rare and unheard of.
The island itself is a living being. The bungalows are extraordinary and the Papuan culture leaks out of the itchy wood posts and lives in the dried grass scent that the breeze blows into the windows. Small lizards reminded us to slow down and enjoy the view when they would dart under our feet on the way to the bungalow. The morning rains and thunder woke us up pleasantly from time to time. Each sunset ended with the sun melting into a sherbet colored dot as the birds sang. And the Papuans…the beautiful Papuans. Always smiling, always laughing, always singing, always warm, always shy. Knowing the resort employs over 60 natives fulfills Raja 4 Divers purpose: to submerge your senses in all things natural and truly Papuan. And knowing Maya, this will thankfully never change.
None of this would work, though, if there wasn’t an immediate acceptance of your presence by the people at the resort as well as the island itself. I miss so many people and wish I could see them every day…
Danci…darling Danci. This young man is a blessing. If it’s hollow he will beat on it and whistle. Every night he will strum a tune and smile this laser white grin and sing like it is the last song he will ever sing. His laughter is pure joy and you’ll never forget it. His diving method is simple: why wait, see it all! He is the Wobegong King and will bat his eyelashes sweetly when you praise his abilities.
Ueli…the eccentric Swiss diving expert. He knew every species, turned over every rock, and chased every shadow in the underwater distance. With over 10,000 dives in the Maldives as a dive instructor, this man on holiday told stories with such gusto your facial muscles would ache later from laughter. If he is there during your vacation you will hear a tale by this amazing story teller. He was truly the icing on my Raja cake.
Maya…the fearless leader. She will inspire you, take care of you, inquire genuinely, answer any question, fix any warm fridge, and fulfill any request within a matter of minutes. She is undoubtedly one of the most amazing women you will ever meet and will pull up a seat to chat with you about any improvements you think should be made. Business woman extraordinaire.
Armin…the lazy diver. If you’re expecting to get anywhere fast on a dive, he will teach you that slow and steady can be quite rewarding! He is the muck master and enjoys pointing out the slowest flatworm or a centimeter long shrimp hiding under a sea anemone. So slow down, he will say…you’re on vacation!
And lastly, Sabine…I miss her most of all. This soft spoken dive master is the “baby bear” and to me, her kind of dives are just right…anything and everything, big or small, is delightful to her and she will show it all to you at a relaxing pace. Education is important to her and she will happily discuss anything you discover, why certain species will do certain things, and will thoroughly explain what you will experience topographically for each dive. She is so vibrant and fun to be around that a dive just isn’t the same if she’s not there. Look for her on the dance floor for she is a joyous Papuan dance expert.
If I have forgotten anyone, please forgive me. You will personally gravitate to not only the unique beauty of the Papuan people, but also to their lack of embarrassment. Everyone here will encourage you to relax, let go, and reflect…without them, Pulau Pef would be just another island…without them, Raja 4 Divers would be just another resort. As much as I remember the lush and unkempt landscapes, the romantic kisses I shared walking to and from the dock, and the countless moments that took my breath away during each dive, it is the people on the island I will forever remember for giving me some of the most spectacular memories I may ever have.
So take your time here at Pulau Pef to strike up a conversation with someone you might never see again. Chew slowly and enjoy watching locals bring in baskets of fish and produce as the day goes on. Breathe leisurely during your dives…Raja on the inhale, Ampat on the exhale. Look for the black tip shark catching your crumbs under the floor of the food hall. Ask Armin for the kayaks and go discover the hidden lake, find your own private beach and snorkel naked…because you can. J Grab a handful of Bintang and watch the sunset right before a storm rolls over your deck. Take a marker and write a Pef-ism on the dry erase board at the dock. Forget about cars and noise and smog and work and responsibilities. Fall in love again. Talk to your God. Rediscover the spirit you lost in the confusion of the everyday hustle and bustle. Hug one another. Always take your time; it probably took you a while to get here. You have taken the road less travelled by, and remember…all you need is Pef.
The Incredible Edible Q - USA
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